Trying to establish a splice point at the old location will be rather difficult and not worth doing given the low cost of wire. It is just too short, since as you say it is spliced immediately upon entering the house. There are no scenarios that allow you to reuse any of the THWN wire that is in the conduit now. I guess you could add an elbow down to 24" on the end of the RMC.īut would that even be compliant? If the pipe doesn't terminate in a box, and isn't really a conduit but just a protective sleeve, is it still allowed to be buried only 6"? That would be a gray area, an inspector may go either way. So the transition from 6" depth to 24" depth would be an issue. However, the depth is an issue the direct burial cable has to be at 24" and the existing conduit is at only 6" depth. You could replace the wires in the conduit with a direct burial cable, and consider the conduit just a protective sleeve this way it doesn't have to terminate in a box. You'd need to make the transition in a box, and the box would have to be accessible. You can bury a splice in a direct burial cable the problem here would be transitioning from wires in conduit to a direct burial cable. You could get a handhole as small as 12" x 12". The usual thing to use is a handhole - like a box where the lid is flush with the ground. You can't bury a junction box - it has to remain accessible. If first option is not feasible - how else can I hide the splice or can I hide the splice whether I can run UF in or out of more RMC? Outdoor waterproof junction box or maybe something like the sprinkler boxes that you can see in the ground? I see 4x4 direct burial j-boxes on HD website - but would like to know code for this and whether owner has to live with this being visible in the lawn!.The current RMC with waterproof splices and run UF wire to where the What are my options to HIDE this splice/junction point? If I digĭeeper to 12" or 18" (from the j-box to the shed) can I splice into.The owner wants to power a shed/garage ~10 ft away from the current J-box, and wants to BURY the current junction site. The junction box at the end of the run is a 90 that comes straight out of the ground approximately 6" up in the middle of the lawn. The circuit is 20A and running 12 guage wire. I've been experimenting with the wago gelbox connectors but they are expensive overkill for the 12v systems we deal with except maybe for pond lights.I have an existing rigid metal conduit run from the service panel to a junction box location that was previously powering an outdoor appliance. We find that the standard white grease is less messy than silicone products. I'd avoid getting fixtures from the big boxes but, for smaller systems, like 150 watts or less, I have had good results with the transformers you can find at Depot.Īs for underground connections, we have been using standard wire nuts pre-filled with a squirt of lithium grease for many years. VOLT is a source of good quality LED bulbs with many options and reasonable prices. We largely install fixtures that use replaceable bulbs rather than integrated LED fixtures. Whatever fixture you get, look for one that is brass, cast if the budget allows. Many of the lights are very similar but they also have a line of products that the public can't get from Volt. Volt sells good quality stuff to the public but there's another side of the same company that only sells to lighting pros. I exclusivly do landscape lighting, mostly for higher-end customers and subdivisions. The big box fixtures (even Kichler sold at Lowes), "solar" lights and the resurrected Malibu discount brand listed above are poor quality and should be avoided. As a result they are far and away the best choice for a homeowner/DIYer that wants to do a professional-level install. Volt made a lot of enemies in the industry by offering a high quality fixture for 1/3rd to 1/4th the price of equivalent fixtures available to contractors at retail pricing. So, a significant portion of the price increase is intended for contractor profit, and speaks nothing to quality for the end user. Recently some of these brands decided they wanted a piece of the DTC pie, but in order to keep their contractors happy, the DTC price is still set at 80-90% of retail. But the model is: they buy the fixtures at ~50% off of retail and then charge retail per fixture to their customers. Others above are correct professionals/contractors use Kichler, Vista, FX, Focus, Hadco, and some other brands. Want to point out that with landscape lighting price is not 1:1 correlated with quality.
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